Hair 2010: The Undercut
A true undercut is a divisive hairstyle – boisterously arrogant, often uniquely beautiful, but with hidden depths and fragility, it is the Brando of hair. Pull it off, and you could be the toast of the sartorially-inclined; fail, and the screams of derision will be deafening – the comparisons to Nathan Barley will be many.
Even if you’re a modern day dandy with the right wardrobe, you’ll need the benefits of youth and supreme confidence to pull this style off.
If you think you’ve got what it takes, pop into Murdock today, and we’ll make your undercut a cut above.
Firstly, what is an undercut
The undercut is a variation on the bowl cut, so that the side or sides and back are cut or shaved very short, leaving a much longer top layer to partially cover the shaved side. The reason that someone might select an undercut over a bowl is mainly due to the fact that the undercut retains its shape better when the head is moved. The style was made famous by David Bowie in the 1980’s, and has been a staple of the punk, cyber and goth looks throughout the 1980’s and ‘90’s, mainly due to the rise of the industrial music scene.
Recently, it’s made a big comeback due to the celebrity endorsements of Brazilian model and socialite Alice Dellal, as well as pop singer Rihanna. For the gents, look no further than the shaven locks of upcoming model (and son of troubadour Nick), Jethro Cave. This is how a true undercut should look (assuming, of course, one has the youth and style to pull it off).
Jethro combines a dapper, if brassy, fashion style with a lock of long black hair shaved off on one side. Such undercuts require little maintenance, apart from regular shaves to keep them at their required length. They also work well when contrasted with messy hair (à la Jethro), or even, dare we suggest such a thing, with a ponytail, like the Argentinian footballer Martin Demichelis. The key to the undercut is the contrast of textures and lengths.
Conservative options
Now these are all quite extreme, fairly long styles – very popular at the moment is a modern take on the undercut which stays relatively short on the top as well. This disconnected version doesn’t have an ‘under’ as such, but retains the contrasting lengths and daring spirit.
Keep your hair textured with Murdock Matt Putty, our versatile and highly effective replacement for Brylcreem.
Written by Sophia Satchell-Baeza
Top Ten Quiffs
The modern quiff – surely among the most legendary of hairstyles – is a mongrel combination of the 1950s pompadour and the flattop, with a slight hint of mohawk snarl.
A staple of the British Teddy Boy movement of the 50’s, the quiff resurfaced in popularity in Europe in the early 1980s when the red-hot passion for big hair burned bright. It hasn’t budged since, enjoying a number of memorably en vogue incarnations.
Different styles include the Tony Curtis; named after the actor, this look was very popular during the 1950’s, before cult indie film director Jim Jarmusch led an on-screen revival in films like Permanent Vacation (1980) and Mystery Train (1989). In the latter, the shadow of Elvis hangs over proceedings, with the two main protagonists, Jun (Masatoshi Nagase) and Jonny/Elvis (Joe Strummer), sporting perfect quiffs to invoke their idol.
Speaking of ‘the King’, Elvis and James Dean must be the poster boys of quiff cool – please, please be careful yours doesn’t end up more Cliff Richard than Little Richard.
Prince Pelayo, the renowned fashion blogger and wearer of Murdock and arckiv. sunglasses, sports a modern quiff, showing that this age-old classic can be updated for the fashionable, 21st century gent.
In days gone by, the quiff was styled using slightly industrial products such as Brilliantine and Brylcreem – a comb was run down the front of the hair to create the tubular shape at the top, while the sides were slicked back.
For help styling your quiff to epic proportions, try Matt Putty texture paste, which will set your style in minutes and last all day. Matt Putty offers great flexibility and hold so you can experiment with wearing your quiff in different ways. Not only does it offer fabulous hold, but also a high definition of texture, to give your quiff its individual signature style. Pick your quiff and start playing.
Here’s our top ten quiffs from film and music:
1. Elvis Presley
2. Jim Jarmusch
3. James Dean
4. Ian Dury
5. Morrissey
6. La Roux (that is a guy right?)
7. Mark Lamarr
8. John Travolta in Grease
9. Frank Kermode
10. Chace Crawford in VMan magazine
By Sophia Satchell Baeza
Men’s Hair 2010: Close Crop
In today’s climate of financial austerity, it’s vital that one ensures he is making the most of his natural assets – there’s no greater accessory than a well-styled head of hair. Read on to discover the best men’s hairstyles for Summer 2010…
Short styles will always be popular, perfectly conveying a confident and vital masculinity. Perfect for active lifestyles, a close crop suggests a man in control of himself and his environment.
Even really short looks require expert care and attention; gently massage John Masters Zinc & Sage Shampoo with Conditioner into wet hair every other day to maintain a healthy glow and stimulated scalp. In terms of styling product, a small amount of Murdock London Hair Play applied evenly will give a desirable texture and level of control.
Recommended Products:
1. John Masters Zinc & Sage Shampoo with Conditioner
John Masters Organic Hair Care
John Masters at Murdock
We’ve been looking for a really great haircare range for a little while now; with John Masters Organics, we think that we’ve finally struck gold. As with all the brands we carry, it fits the vital criteria that our customers look out for; it’s a simply packaged, gimmick-free range with products which, first and foremost, satisfy their primary function.
So the Rosemary and Lavender Shampoo for Normal Hair keeps hair spotlessly clean with a light, organic formula that means it can be used daily without overpowering with a sickly fragrance or a damaging chemical formula.
Other products such as the Bourbon Vanilla and Tangerine Hair Texturiser, may sound daunting but is really a high quality pomade which can be used on a variety of hair lengths and styles, thus simplifying a man’s grooming routine – you’ll no longer need half a dozen products dependent on your current haircut.
About John Masters – the man
With a mix of creative ambition and simple common sense, John Masters started making organic products 20 years ago. He saw the great environmental and health benefits of products that can deliver unsurpassed results using only natural ingredients. Part basement alchemist, part organic innovator, John began mixing organic essential oils and herbs in his kitchen sink.
We know the modern man will really appreciate this – there’s no catchy packaging or ultra-cook product names, just the finest haircare we could find anywhere in the world.
We’ve been using it in on customers in-store for a couple of weeks now, and the feedback has been very good – why not pop in and find out for yourself?
Murdock at the BRIT Awards 2010
The nominees for this year's BRIT Awards, held on Tuesday 16 February at Earl's Court Arena, London, have been announced. We can exclusively reveal that joining the likes of Robbie Williams, Dizzee Rascal, Jay-Z and Peter Kaye at the event will be a selection of Murdock barbers!
We've been asked to man a pop-up barbershop in the backstage area to take care of any last minute grooming requirements, so I imagine we'll be preening Mika's locks and finishing off Robbie's coiffure, we'll be there on rehearsal day and show day if any of you happen to be backstage, to book your slot backstage brits@murdocklondon.com.
If you fancy the same level as service as some of the world's biggest music stars, then book an appointment at one of our stores or treat someone with a gift certificate.
Men’s Hair this Winter
A place at the forefront of men’s hairdressing is not without its burdens, not least the responsibility to inform gentlemen everywhere of the latest hair trends. As our barbers will frequently impart, the style du jour may not be the right cut for you, but that isn’t to say you shouldn’t be occasionally influenced by the latest fashions.
First thing first, transient celebrity trends should almost certainly be avoided (needless to say, the ghastly ‘Jedward hairstyle’ has done more harm to the common quiff than even a fat Elvis could). This isn’t to say that you can’t draw any influence from what you see on the silver screen or elsewhere in popular culture, but you can’t go around expecting to ask for the ‘Robert Pattinson’ haircut and suddenly find yourself inundated with requests to get your fangs out.
Speaking of Pattinson, his “undone” style is rather modish, but I’d certainly recommend keeping it on the shorter side. Rather than 100% adopting his look, perhaps adapt an existing cut to be slightly more windswept and laissez-faire. Products are key here, so pick up some Matt Putty or Hair Play and gently add definition to a slightly longer style. As always, if you’re not completely sure whether it will work for you, pop into one of stores and seek the advice of a bona-fide professional.
Just as I am extolling the virtues of an unkempt look, I must also advocate the continued popularity of neater, more structured styles. The best example here is another young English actor, Dominic Cooper, who latest role in An Education has seen him leave behind his usual spiky crop and sport a much more mature and flattering parting. This is perfect for anyone who wants to be taken seriously, either professionally or stylistically; try the regrettably-named Hair Doh to achieve well defined hold without weighing hair down or getting an oily texture.
Seven Deadly Grooming Sins
We all make mistakes. Unfortunately, when they’re grooming mistakes, pretty much everyone can see the error of our ways. So here’s how to avoid the seven worst slip-ups…
Shaving Against Hair Growth
Now wet-shaving isn’t yet on the national curriculum, but that’s no excuse for shoddy shaving habits. One of the worst offences is lazily dragging your razor against the direction of hair growth; this can lead to in-grown hairs, razor-rash and an altogether uncomfortable shaving experience. So take your time and look out for any changes in hair direction. And if your still in any doubt as to how you should be doing it, come in for traditional wet shave and one of our barbers will show you how it’s done.
Dry and Dehydrated Skin
Most men have evolved past the primordial view that moisturising is exclusively the domain of women, but now and again we all neglect our skin, especially as seasons change and an up-dated grooming regime is needed. Here at Murdock we recommend shaving at least twice a day and again after shaving if this occurs outside of your normal skin-maintenance hours. Particularly good moisturisers include Jack Black Double Duty Face Moisturiser, Zirh Protect and D.R Harris Almond Oil.
One Cologne to Rule Them All
It’s ever so tempting to find one cologne you like and stick to it; to cultivate a signature scent that all and sundry will forever associate with you. In reality this only works if you’re still using the same Lynx spray of your youth (not recommended). So, it’s important to look at new colognes and try out seasonal scents, perhaps something more fresh and citrusy for the summer and a warm muskier fragrance for the summer. Keep checking this blog and the Murdock Cologne section for our latest arrivals.
Refusing Haircuts
It’s nice to try out new hairstyles and even embrace the odd passing trend, and this will often involve some varying of hair length. This can lead to the somewhat simple claim that you don’t require a haircut, as you intend to grow it. Thus men up and down the country, many of whom should know better, go months and months withough the pleasure of seeing their barber, and as a result start to cultivate untidy, unkempt and just plain undesirable hairstyles.
Now I am tempted to perpetuate the urban myth that cutting hair helps it grow; as far as I’m aware, this is scientifically inaccurate, however from a purely aesthetic point of you there can be no doubt of the benefits of the occasional trim: you won’t look quite so much like a homeless person.
Chronic Fingernail Neglect
Amidst the hustle and bustle of modern life, first impressions are everything. Although you might not realise it, our hands can say a lot about the person we are. Ensure you make a positive initial impression by keeping your mitts in mint condition.
The manicure service at Murdock continues to grow in popularity; no need for a trip to a specialised beauty salon, our multi-talented barbers will carefully revitalise those tired hands as you relax in the chair.
Forgetting Lip Balm
As temperatures drop and wind speeds increase, lip balms go from being a slightly fey peripheral part of the male grooming canon to occupying a spot much closer to the epicentre. Wind and rain are a sure-fire formula for chapping, cracking and general discomfort. In the past, most blokes to steered clear of proper balms and settled for a lump of good old Vaseline. But not anymore, thanks to products such as Brave Soldier Lip Defender for the more action-orientated gentleman, or Jack Black Intense Therapy Lip Balm SPF 25 for anyone who likes to mix all-natural ingredients with top-quality protection, man lips dontt have to suffer anymore.
Excess Hair Product
Despite the pervasiveness of the almost-stereotype bloke, reluctant to use any grooming product for fear of becoming emasculated, one area the fellas have never shied away from is hair styling goods. Whether slapping on brylcreem and slicking back a parting or carefully sculpting a spikey fringe, the British male has often adopted a ‘more the merrier’ approach. The reasons for this behaviour are slightly baffling but here at Murdock we’re trying to do our bid to stamp out the phenomena; try one of our Murdock styling products and realise that less really is more.
Murdock at the Movies
With The Times BFI London Film Festival 2009 (14th – 29th October 2009) just over a week away, we take a look at some of the boldest grooming choices soon to appear on the silver screen.
Fantastic Mr Fox (George Clooney)
This is the big one. The style icon of the season. Okay, so he's a fictional feral animal but he's suave, charismatic and resourceful. And he has a particularly good wardrobe for someone who lives in a hole.
American – The Bill Hicks Story (Bill Hicks)
Now Bill Hicks was never a great fan of consumerism, supeficiality or popular culture, which proably explains why he's rarely considered a style icon. But he had a signature look (dark, brooding, smoking) and he stuck with it, demonstrating a degree of self-confidence to go with his sophisticated, independent brand of black comedy.
The Men Who Stare at Goats (George Clooney)
The American military is another unlikely source of sartorial insight, but this promising comedy features the usually debonair Mr Clooney sporting a rather fetching moustache. It seems such top lip topiary has been a celluloid mainstay this year (see Brad Pitt in Inglorious Basterds, Johnny Depp in Public Enemies). With Movember on the horizon, it could be time for you to start cultivating a 'tache…
Topper (Cary Grant)
A classic comedy from 1937 starring the original leading man from Hollywood's Golden Age. Grant's handsome looks and charming demeanour have inspired generations of smooth gentlemen. Catch this special screening for a look at the original George Clooney.
The Road (Viggo Mortensen)
It's quite a leap from the comedy Topper to this apocalyptic movie based on the bleak Cormac McCarthy book of the same name. Indeed, Viggo Mortensen's bedgraggled, hirsute end-of-the-world-survivor couldn't be further from Cary Grant. Maybe a Murdock Full Service would sort him out.
The Informant! (Matt Damon)
Further moustache-based Hollywood fun, this time starring a portly Matt Damon directed by Steve Soderbergh. Okay, so it's probably not Damon's best look but he has been credited with "a mesmerizing mindfuck of a performance", for which the moustache must get come acclaim. The Bourne Goatee next?
Up in the Air (George Clooney)
I thought it was only reasonable to finish with yet another George Clooney film, this was starring Mr Clooney as a frequent flyer whose happily itinerant way of life is jeopardised when he meets a special lady. The silver fox is starting to look his age in this one, but is the perfect example of a man growing old naturally and with sophistication.
New Murdock Hair Products
We've decided it's time to put our industry knowlege and men's hair expertise to good use and develop a consumate line of styling products. Without sounding too boastful, men's hair is what we do better than anyone else; we wash it, we cut it, we style it. So who better to create the perfect styling range?
The hair product market has proliferated rapidly over the last decade; there are more waxes, pastes, gels, gums and putties than ever before, making it increasingly difficult to know which one is right for you. One of the great benefits of visiting Murdock or any other dedicated gentlemen's barber is that men's hair is the sole focus. We deal exclusively with guys, so we know the on-trend styles, the complex nuances of men's hairs ("Straight, but curly; thick, yet fine…") and we can recommend which products are right for which style.
As anyone who's come in for a cut in recent months will know, we've finally finished the Murdock range, and the results are good. Very good. So if you haven't tried them out yet, here is a brief overview:
With Mad Men on our screens and an upsurge in formal tailoring on the catwalks and high streets, the vintage, slick-backed look is undergoing a renaissance. But the main problem with these styles is getting them to stay in place with a natural yet firm hold, without overdoing the product and looking well, sleazy. (SEE: http://www.theonion.com/content/news/nations_slicked_back_hair_men). We've been well aware of this conundrum for some time, so we really see Matt Putty as an important breakthrough; it's a great texture paste that will give you that slicked-back look without overloading the hair. Get Matt Putty, emulate Don Draper.
The quiff is a classic, but achieving a classic quiff is not easy. In it's purest and most perfect state (see Morrissey)the quiff is a sensual delight, with a firm structure yet flexible composition. With Hair Doh we think we've found the perfect quiff-aid; it gives really light weight but strong hold, that won't weigh your style down. There's more: it also gives bold separation, making great for producing contrasting light and shade in the surface texture. Simply a great product (dodgy name though…).
If Matt Putty helps achieve a refined, slightly rigid look, then Matt Mudd is the product of choice for anyone who carries off a more flexible style. For such a fella, think Robert Downey Jr as the new Sherlock Holmes; smart, stylish, well-read, and debonair, but also very active and passionate, with a look that is like a more mature take on the 'bed head' craze. Matt Mudd is great for lightly defining hair in such as way; helping present an effortless look rather than an over-preened and self consciously trendy style.
We've all been there; busy day at work, big night at play. Drinks on Friday (or Thursday, or Wednesday or Tue…) after work are clearly a very good thing, but partaking in these drinks (and any further merriment) in your work get-up will only get you so far. Now Hair Play certainly isn't a watertight solution to this issue, but, like the name says, it will at least allow some flexibility when it comes to your hair. Great hold and texture allows for some experimentation after the office, or alternatively, for keeping hair neat and tidy throughout the day.
Any questions about these products? Feel free to get in touch with any queries.
The Murdock Gentlemen
September 25, 2009 by James
Filed under News, Summer Essentials
The Murdock Dandy Gentlemen
A look at the archetypal Murdock gent.
Hair & Wet Shaves
Darren Agyei-Dua
darrenagyeidua@googlemail.com
Using; Kevin Murphy & Santa Maria Novella
Men’s Fashion
Mr. Phillip Start for Start London M/W A/W 2008
Stylist
Darren Agyei-Dua
Photography
Simon Cardwell
Make Up Artists
Gillian Davies
Models
Ashwin Pyrus
Marc Flecture
